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Don't Put Off Seasonal Maintenance

Fall 2002 - In many parts of North America, getting equipment ready for the next golf season is called winterizing. However, while a lot of equipment operates in areas that may not see snow and ice, it still requires seasonal service.

There are practical reasons for performing this maintenance. First, it helps equipment perform better and last longer. Second, seasonal service reduces downtime and repair bills.

Before you put equipment away, take the time to prepare all systems and components. Pay particular attention to the battery and cooling system.

The battery is your equipment’s heart.

Good maintenance begins with dirt-free and corrosion-free batteries. Dirt, corrosion and moisture provide a path for energy to escape from the battery. Consider these points when making a visual inspection:


• Exterior and terminals. When dirt or corrosion accumulates, use a weak solution of baking soda and water to clean the battery’s exterior. You may need a wire brush to scrub the terminals. Use an electrical-grade lubricant as a protective coating on battery terminals.

• Cables. Defective cables and poor connections are two of the top reasons for cranking problems. Keep cables and connections “bright and tight.” When storing equipment for longer than 10 days, disconnect battery ground cables to avoid discharging the battery.

• Electrolyte levels. Make sure to maintain the electrolyte level between the top of the battery plates and below the vent well cap opening. Don’t overfill. Adding too much water dilutes the electrolyte’s sulfuric acid and reduces the battery’s charge.

• Charge levels. Measure the state of a battery’s charge with a hydrometer. Installing undercharged batteries represents 80 percent of battery warranty claims. Undercharged batteries can freeze at 18 degrees F.

• Storage. Store batteries in a cool, dry place. A cool environment slows a battery’s discharge rate. Warm temperatures accelerate this rate. Ideal storage conditions range from 40 to 60 degrees F.

Condition cooling systems

The next step in your seasonal maintenance program is to pressure-check your equipment’s cooling system. Consider these points:


• Radiator. First, check the radiator cap for leaks. If the cap must be replaced, only use one with the same pressure setting.

With the engine running, look for bubbles in the coolant. Engines don’t tolerate any air in the system. Make sure the coolant level is 1 inch over the top of the radiator core. With the engine off and cool, remove the radiator cap; then start the engine and visually check the water running through the radiator for contaminants.

Clean radiator fins with compressed air blown from rear to front. Shine a light through the radiator from the rear to verify that air passages are clear.

• Hoses. If you find contaminants in the radiator, it could mean hoses are deteriorating from the inside. Squeeze the hose firmly to check its condition. An overly soft hose has been exposed to oil or grease and can rupture or swell under pressure. If the hose is hard and brittle, it may have been overcured by engine heat, causing it to crack or break easily. Make sure hoses do not rub against other components. Check hose clamps for tightness.

• Belts. Check fan belts for condition and alignment. Use a tension gauge to measure belt deflection.

• Antifreeze and water. When premixing antifreeze, use a 50 percent mix with good quality water. This percentage protects against freezing to minus 34 degrees F. If you need additional protection, you can increase the antifreeze to 60 percent.

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